The other day I went for an afternoon nap and awoke with a shock that I had slept long into the night. It was only 6.30pm and yet it was already dark. The recent rise in temperatures had led me into a false sense of security that we are back in the days of glorious summer, but alas, the seasons have definitely changed. I’ve even started to mention the ‘C’ word (not that one… the one that ends with ‘hristmas’.)
The thing is that I am rather looking forward to a couple of months of hibernation before the party season begins, spending a lot of time at home and lazily meeting friends for walks in the park or drinks in the local pub. No elaborate plans involving picnics or trips to roof terraces preceded by a nail-biting surveillance of the Met Office in case unseasonal rain threatens to scupper the plans. The wedding invitations have been filed, the BBQ covered for the winter and the beachwear put into storage. Time for some nights in.
With the threat of going out in beachwear in public now removed for a few months, it is also a time to indulge in some comfort food. Huge bowls of things that can be eaten on the couch whilst watching television; and the roast meats and billowing Yorkshire puddings on offer in pubs that fuel a good stomp in the woods afterwards. Custard on absolutely everything. Not a time to get fat, exactly, but a time to nourish out the threat of the cold.
I make a lot of stews and soups in the cooler months. The vegetables that are in abundance at this time of year lend themselves to being cooked in a broth until soft. This particular stew can be adapted to use up almost any ingredients that you have in the fridge: old potatoes, leftover carrots, leafy greens or just about anything else. It is cooked very simply in a mixture of stock and white wine and made substantial by the addition of pearl barley. 45 minutes on the hob and its is ready.
Using vegetable stock in this stew will make it vegetarian, but recently I have developed a bit of a habit of adding some cold cooked meat to the top after it has been served up. The contrast in temperatures does what a spoonful of sour cream does to a soup or chilli, and it just gives it that little extra robustness. Leftover roasted meats are good for this, especially chicken or turkey, but I also love Waitrose’s pulled ham hock. It costs about £2.90 for two small packets and is also fabulous in pies or sandwiches.
Root Vegetable Stew with Pearl Barley
1 leek, sliced
2 carrots, peeled and diced into 2cm pieces
2 parsnips, peeled and diced into 2cm pieces
1 baking potato, peeled and diced into 2cm pieces
2 bay leaves
1 tsp dried thyme
100g pearl barley
75ml white wine
1l vegetable stock
1 tbsp tomato puree
2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
Heat the butter in a large saucepan with a little olive oil. Add the leek, carrots, parsnips and potatoes and cook over a medium heat for around five minutes, stirring occasionally.
Stir in the bay leaves, thyme, barley, white wine, vegetable stock and tomato puree. Bring to a simmer and cook for around 45 minutes until the vegetables and barley are tender. Remove the bay leaf, stir in the parsley and check the seasoning before serving.